So, stays. The foundation garment that pulls everything together, or rather holds everything where it should be. Unlike the corsets of the Victorian era, earlier stays or "paires of bodies" were not designed to create a smaller waist. They were designed to lift the bosom and flatten the front, creating a flat surface to display elaborate embroideries and fine fabrics and such. Of course, this would apply to those ladies who had both the wealth and time for such things.For ladies of working or merchant classes, this silhouette was still the desired fashion, they just would not have had quite as much in the way of fancy decorations.
Stays can go on one of two ways- by lacing up the back or up the front. Back lacing stays often require help from a lady's maid (or helpful friend). Front lacing stays are much easier to put on by yourself. There are also front-and-back lacing stays, that are much easier to adapt to a variety of body shapes.
Women and girls of all classes would be wearing stays. Even little bitty toddlers! The stays were not restrictive, but rather would help to keep the proper posture, and get the girls used to wearing them (kind of like a training bra). Stays do not not not reshape your body. Not like Victorian corsets, or modern waist trainers. They're actually really comfortable to wear, even for extended periods of time. I mean, there are some things that are more difficult in stays just because of the shift from what we're used to these days. For example, it is REALLY difficult to pick things up or tie your shoes after getting your stays on. That's why the dressing order goes shift, stockings, garters, shoes, then stays. Everything else is supported by the stays.
Now, construction!
I've used a few different patterns, and none of the people below have paid me to say anything. Credit where credit is due, I have used both of the American Duchess patterns (8162 and 8579) as well as the Butterick Historical pattern (B4254) for 18th century stays, and the Reconstructing History 17th Century Stays pattern. I have like and disliked things about all of them, but that has much more to do with the actual business of making the stays than the patterns themselves. I enjoy making stays, both by hand and by machine, but I really don't like binding them. I've found a few tutorials in my web searching, and decided to try it my own way this time. If it doesn't work out, I'll give one of those a try!
So firstly, find a pattern you like. You can check local fabric stores for the patterns I mentioned or find one online to download or have mailed to you.
Next, gather your materials:
- outer fabric, in the design of your choice and to the measurement specified by your pattern: 5/8 to 1 yard is usually enough if the pattern isn't striped or some other pattern that would require matching. I like to use a light floral cotton for 18th century, and a solid or striped linen for 17th century.
- one layer of stiff interlining, or several layers of a softer interlining, depending on how stiff you want your stays and how many layers of fabric you want to cut out and stitch through: Canvas and coutil are good for a stiff lining, I'm experimenting with two layers of cotton in my next set.
- lining fabric: the same amount as your outer fabric. I like linen for lining stays as it is soft and breathable. Cotton is good too, but I would not recommend anything synthetic. You will regret it- that stuff doesn't breathe at all!
- boning material: this can be purchased from a fabric store, but I don't recommend that. It gets WAY to expensive really quickly. Thick cable ties work really well and are cheap, you can find them at almost any hardware store in the heating/air conditioning section. I'm experimenting with 1/4" ties for the next set, but I think they will be too thin (I bought reed online just in case the zipties don't work out well).
- binding material: bias tape is an ok option, but should be ironed in circles so that it will actually bend around the tabs. I have made my own linen binding tape that is going on my 17th century set, and will be using a thin, soft leather on the 18th century set. I like to use a color that is a stark contrast to the outer fabric. For example, my moss green stays will have a wine-purple binding, and my orange floral stays will have a warm leather binding. I made forest green stays for my sister with a lemon yellow binding, and another set for a friend in a green vine print with sky blue binding. It is also common to see stays bound with the same fabric as the outer layer, so the binding blends in very well.
- needle and thread: even if you machine stitch most of them, you will still have to do some hand-finishing. I like to use thread that matches my binding rather than the outer fabric. regular sewing thread is find for most of the stays, but buttonhole thread is needed for the eyelets.
- an awl: this will be used to make the lacing holes. It is important to use an awl (or large knitting needle, in a pinch) so that you are pushing the threads of the fabric out of the way rather than cutting them. This is both more period correct and sturdier. It is possible to use metal eyelets and sew over them, and this results in very sturdy and uniform eyelets. I have done this on two of the stays I have made previously, and had no issue with it. I will recommend one of the eyelet punches that looks like pliers, it will save your hands from a lot of aching. On my next sets of stays, I will be doing it the old fashioned way, with just thread.
Third, time to cut out your layers. This is also a good time to make a mock-up. Use cheap or scrap fabric and make sure the pattern you have doesn't need any adjusting. Once you have made any necessary fixes to the fit of your stays, you can cut that pretty fabric you've been hoarding for just this occasion (I hoarded this orange fabric for almost a year before I found everything I wanted to go with it and made up my mind). In this step, ONLY CUT THE OUTER AND INTERLINING. The lining will be cut later, as one piece. This saves so much time and hassle. For front lacing stays, you will cut the back on the fold as one piece. You should end up with one back, two to four sides (depending on your pattern), two straps, and two fronts (or a stomacher). For back lacing stays, you will end up with the opposite. Two backs, two to four sides, two straps, and one front. This is where you really need to understand your pattern and how it will fit together. Measure how long your boning pieces need to be, and cut those out as well. If you are using zipties, or anything else that leaves a rough edge, be sure to sand it down with a metal nail file or sanding block, otherwise they might poke you through your stays!
Step four! Arrange all the pieces together, minus the lining. Line up the out fabric and all of the interlining, and baste around the edges. Through trial and error, I've found that it is easiest to finish each piece, then stitch them all together and line them as one piece. Once each piece is stitched and bound together, stitch the binding around only on the right side, leaving the top edge unbound. This is the annoying part. You have to go around each and every tab. This can be done on a machine, but I recommend doing it by hand. You will have more control over the tabs this way. Once the binding is all the way around the tabs, insert the boning from the top edge. If there are any pieces that need to go into the tabs or can't be accessed from the top edge, put those in as you sew the binding. Now you can finish sewing the binding around the top edge, and fold it over twice to form a pretty hem. Don't sew it down just yet!
This is where you cut your lining- but read the next part before you do that!
You have two option for adding the lining- I recommend cutting it as one piece and sewing it in OVER the binding on the inside. This way the lining will be easy to replace if need be. If you choose to do it this way, go ahead and stitch down the pretty hem you folded over, then add the lining by folding that edge under once to hide the raw edges. you can just trace your stays onto your lining fabric and add a little bit of seam allowance if you choose to do it this way. Option two is to cut out each piece like you did for the main pieces and stitch them together, press the seams, and stitch them down on the inside of your stays. I think this adds an unnecessary step, but it's up to you!
Once you finish all of that, time to add eyelets! Mark 1/2" from the top of your stays, on both sides of wherever the lacing will start (front or back). Then, mark 1/2" down from ONE SIDE. Not both. This is how you will get the pretty, period correct spiral lacing. Once you have these three marks, continue to mark 1" down from each until you reach close to the bottom. Mirror the top edge on the bottom edge, poke holes with your awl, whipstitch around them, and voila! You just made stays!
More details and photos will follow as I go through these steps myself. I will combine them all into one post once it's all done so that it will be easier to follow should you decided to make your own stays! (Otherwise you can just buy mine :P )
The photo below is the stays I borrowed when I started reenacting, they were made by Townsends (http://www.townsends.us/ladies-stays-st265-p-912-8234.html. They are wonderful and comfy, and great if you're just getting started in reenactment!
17th century stays, 18th century stays, stay making, boning, undergarments, historic reenactment, spiral lacing, stays, corsets
